{"id":373,"date":"2019-02-22T14:15:45","date_gmt":"2019-02-22T14:15:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/?p=373"},"modified":"2019-02-22T14:45:51","modified_gmt":"2019-02-22T14:45:51","slug":"can-farm-to-table-restaurants-take-on-the-industrialized-food-system","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/2019\/02\/22\/can-farm-to-table-restaurants-take-on-the-industrialized-food-system\/","title":{"rendered":"Can Farm-to-Table Restaurants Take on The Industrialized Food System?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><em>This&nbsp;entry&nbsp;launches&nbsp;our&nbsp;new&nbsp;&#8220;Topics&nbsp;Affecting&nbsp;Our&nbsp;Community&#8221;&nbsp;series&nbsp;of&nbsp;thematic&nbsp;blog&nbsp;posts&nbsp;around&nbsp;issues&nbsp;impacting&nbsp;us&nbsp;at&nbsp;Sussex&nbsp;Global.&nbsp;This&nbsp;is&nbsp;the&nbsp;first&nbsp;post&nbsp;for&nbsp;February&#8217;s&nbsp;theme:&nbsp;Food&nbsp;and&nbsp;Culture.&nbsp;It&nbsp;is&nbsp;written&nbsp;by&nbsp;<strong>Anna&nbsp;Montanari,<\/strong> 3rd&nbsp;year&nbsp;student&nbsp;in&nbsp;International&nbsp;Development&nbsp;and&nbsp;Anthropology.&nbsp;<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:left\">It is common to walk around, especially for those of us who live in Brighton, and see restaurants that display their choice of quality, tasty and unprocessed food. Their menus feature the local source of ingredients highlighting that vegetables are sustainable and organic, the chicken is grass-fed and the eggs are free-range. Farm-to-table restaurants have become powerful symbols for protests against a globalised and industrialised food system, and chefs play a key role in promoting sustainable production and consumption, and in bridging the gap between producers and consumers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"552\" height=\"362\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.11-PM.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-374\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.11-PM.png 552w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.11-PM-300x197.png 300w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.11-PM-100x66.png 100w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.11-PM-150x98.png 150w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.11-PM-200x131.png 200w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.11-PM-450x295.png 450w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 552px) 100vw, 552px\" \/><figcaption>Mission statement of Silo,&nbsp;a restaurant in Brighton.  Photo credit: Mike Gibson (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/exchange.sussex.ac.uk\/owa\/redir.aspx?C=CbZnjmk_HxXtc-uJsqqA2YWdoERf2njlZk7Pg7XuuNn1V4GEzZjWCA..&amp;URL=https%3a%2f%2ffoodism.co.uk%2ffeatures%2fdan-barber-farm-to-table-whole-farm-dining%2f\" target=\"_blank\">https:\/\/foodism.co.uk\/features\/dan-barber-farm-to-table-whole-farm-dining\/<\/a>&nbsp;)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>This worldwide trend of paying particular\nattention to quality, provenance of food and advocating for a closer\nrelationship between food producers and consumers is particularly well-received\namong the majority of chefs across US. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It appears quite controversial since few\nlarge agribusinesses and transnational corporations have controlled the US\nmarket and concentrated a great economic power, while small non-competitive\nproducers have been forced out of business. Other alienated producers have\nprovided bulk commodities, which have been exchanged in national and global\nmarkets and sold below the cost of production in supermarkets. American consumers,\nwho do not know the basic details of their food production, have been dependent\non imported products and highly processed standardised fast food. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Far more than controversial, since the\ncounter-cuisine of the 1960s and 1970s, some chefs have opposed and found <em>solutions<\/em> to the environmental and\nsocio-economic <em>problems<\/em> of the\nagro-industrial food system by creating alternative markets, choosing to buy\nfrom local farmers and give their customers access to non-toxic nutritious\nmeals. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In my Anthropology of Food\u2019s dissertation,\nI analysed American chefs\u2019 limitations on promoting alternative food in terms\nof an opposition and the contradictions in advocating for a reconnection between\nproducers and consumers. I approached this in terms of two questions: do chefs\u2019\nstrategies have a revolutionary potential to challenge the American\nindustrialised food system? Are American chefs driven by self-interest or are\nthey activists dedicated to a broader agenda? I argued that, even though food\nsystem \u2018localisation\u2019 could be a strategic pathway and have a transformative\npotential, chefs are neoliberal subjectivities who are driven by self-interest\nand use strategies of the neoliberal economy without challenging the\nconventional value chain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Farm-to-table\nchefs\u2019 strategies:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li><strong>Intimate relationships with farmers <\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Matt G., a chef from Tennessee, illustrates\nhow interacting and forging an intimate relationship with producers at the\nlocal market are important aspects. When chefs treat farmers respectfully and\nappropriately, they receive great ingredients that enable them to cook\nsuccessful meals in their restaurants. If guests like a dish, they will know\nwhere to find the best ingredients. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"592\" height=\"326\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.22-PM.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.22-PM.png 592w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.22-PM-300x165.png 300w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.22-PM-100x55.png 100w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.22-PM-150x83.png 150w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.22-PM-200x110.png 200w, https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/files\/2019\/02\/Screen-Shot-2019-02-22-at-1.58.22-PM-450x248.png 450w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 592px) 100vw, 592px\" \/><figcaption>Dan Barber and his team at Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Photo Credit: Dan Etherington (https:\/\/breadcakesandale.wordpress.com)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<ul><li><strong>Food stories <\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Through\nwaiters, chefs give a story to their customers in order to make them aware of\nthe importance of supporting farmers and their sustainable practices. For\nexample, Dan Barber, who is the executive chef and co-owner of the top-tier\nrestaurants Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York, spends a lot of\nhis time acquainting the waiters with the story behind every item on the menu.\nWhen customers know about the origins of the food on their plate, they can\nappreciate it more and, eventually, change their eating habits. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li><strong>Alternative markets<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Mikey Azzara\u2019s Zone 7, which is a New\nJersey\u2019s growing zone and distributor of high quality products from organic and\nsustainable farmers in New Jersey and Eastern Pennsylvania, represents a great\nopportunity for both chefs and producers. Since Mikey Azzara has founded Zone 7\nin 2008, the aim is to create an alternative market for farmers as an attempt\nto decrease the number of steps between farmers and consumers and support small\norganic farms, while chefs can have access to quality produce. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Both through stories and connections with\nfarmers, farm-to-table chefs aim to reconfigure a dynamic totality, which is\nkey to establish a sense of belonging and inclusivity, transcend the alienation\nand displacement of the industrialised food system, and ultimately take political\naction against the industrialised food system. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Articulating\na critique:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>Federal regulations and\nneoliberal policies of free market might put pressure on farmers. Moreover, once\nchefs understand that sustainability is an important element of quality and\nsuccess for their meals, they cherry-pick the best ingredients in the farm,\ntherefore forcing farmers to grow expensive and ecologically demanding\nproducts. Chefs\u2019 quest for flavour and search for variety might put further\ndemand on small farmers. <\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>It is evident that\nalternative markets are not absent of unequal power relations. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>Selling local and organic\nproduce directly to restaurants is a way of doing business and mimics other\nforms of distribution provided by larger national distributors.<\/li><li>Teaching people about\nprovenance is not just good for local farmers but beneficial for the restaurant\u2019s\nprofit. It is a strategy to create a positive image and attract tourists, media\nand customers to return to the restaurant. <\/li><li>Through food stories, chefs\noften singularise their ingredients by emphasising on the effort and energy\nthat farmers invest in sustainable practices, the skills of growers to produce\nbetter quality products, and their intimate relations with farmers, turning\nlocal products into expensive commodities and therefore generating a profitable\nincome. <\/li><\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This&nbsp;entry&nbsp;launches&nbsp;our&nbsp;new&nbsp;&#8220;Topics&nbsp;Affecting&nbsp;Our&nbsp;Community&#8221;&nbsp;series&nbsp;of&nbsp;thematic&nbsp;blog&nbsp;posts&nbsp;around&nbsp;issues&nbsp;impacting&nbsp;us&nbsp;at&nbsp;Sussex&nbsp;Global.&nbsp;This&nbsp;is&nbsp;the&nbsp;first&nbsp;post&nbsp;for&nbsp;February&#8217;s&nbsp;theme:&nbsp;Food&nbsp;and&nbsp;Culture.&nbsp;It&nbsp;is&nbsp;written&nbsp;by&nbsp;Anna&nbsp;Montanari, 3rd&nbsp;year&nbsp;student&nbsp;in&nbsp;International&nbsp;Development&nbsp;and&nbsp;Anthropology.&nbsp; It is common to walk around, especially for those of us who live in Brighton, and see restaurants that display their choice of quality, tasty and unprocessed food. Their menus feature the local source of ingredients highlighting that<span class=\"ellipsis\">&hellip;<\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/2019\/02\/22\/can-farm-to-table-restaurants-take-on-the-industrialized-food-system\/\">Read more &#8250;<\/a><\/div>\n<p><!-- end of .read-more --><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[140609,140599,1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/373"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=373"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/373\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":382,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/373\/revisions\/382"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=373"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=373"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.sussex.ac.uk\/global\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=373"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}